The new classy but no less authentic and delicious Parrilla brought to you by the original chef and founder of El Buen Ayre, London's most popular Argentine restaurant

By Amaranta Wright

Hackney’s El Buen Ayre has long been London’s most popular Argentine restaurant; a little piece of nostalgia for those who’ve been to Buenos Aires (it really is like being back in the barrio) and, for those who haven’t, an unpretentious lively grill with carnivorous satisfaction guaranteed. Since original chef John Rattagan split from his business partner, the latter has been stealing the limelight with his new up-market Battersea venture (conveniently local to Gordon Ramsey, as we saw on TV), while the former keeps El Buen Ayre thriving. Now its time for Rattagan to steal some back, with the launch of his second, bigger and also more chic parrilla behind Exmouth Market in Farringdon.

A La Cruz, a cast-iron adorned, brick ware-house just off the main drag, whilst more stylized, is strangely also just like being back in a BA. barrio, more Palermo than Caballito. Its main dining area is large, with an open, clean and simple design, and meat cooking on a round pampa-style grill behind glass (presumably to stop smoking out the customers). It has two cosier dark wood-paneled rooms with huge tables; perfect for the big parties that Buen Aire hasn’t the space to cater for. The friendly, chatty staff dispel any pretension that the décor could be accused of.

Trendy, yes, but if there is any doubt, the unmistakable wafting scent of parrilla and Rattagan’s own charisma infuse the place with authenticity. Personally I prefer this Irish-Argie’s chaotic energy to the slick - though no less authentic - style of his ex-partner. John grew up on a pampa farm where, being the eldest son, he was the family’s Sunday parrillero from the age of nine (just the imagery makes me pine!). He then came to England and did a Fine Arts degree at St. Martins. So yes, nutty chef -  there is certainly a touch of Van Gogh craziness about the man with the barbeque stoke, in a way that only an Argie could pull off endearingly. Nothing like a character to get you attached to a place.

Most importantly, John knows his meat. A sizzling mountain of it is placed beside us and we just look on wondering how on earth we’re going to get through it. But once you start you just can’t stop, each cut having a different flavour and texture, and all - fatty and lean alike - simply delicious, washed down with a Malbec. I’m a bife de chorizo girl myself, but the signs I look out for in any Argy restaurant in the UK are the morcilla (black pudding - which should be crispy on the outside, soft and smooth on the in, and melt in the mouth with its sweet richness) and the sweetbreads; crispy and succulent, with a dash of lemon. Both passed the test. I am in seventh heaven, imagining I am bathing in the pampa sun under the faint eucalyptus-scented breeze. My other measure is the empanadas which I have periodic cravings for, and the deep-fried pastry and filling were also perfect – just make sure you don’t eat too many before the meat comes. The chorizo sausage could be slightly improved on. The dulce de leche ice-cream which, belly bursting, I couldn't resist: sublime.

You can safely picture the grin on my face rolling out of the door. We got the special ‘winter sale’ offer of £30 a head for the huge mixed grill – great value – and took what we couldn’t eat home in a bag. It kept us going for two more days.

More info: A LA CRUZ